Review: Irish Times – Loam Restaurant in Galway – Not perfect, but close

loam (1)

Ingredients are king and Enda McEvoy is developing a style all his own

The meat isn’t even on my plate. I’m filching it shamelessly from someone else at the table. It’s mutton, but not as we know it. That woolly lanolin cloy of sheep that makes you yearn for some spring lamb isn’t here. This is mutton dressed as fillet.  Chunks of silken umami, so good I’m going to break a reviewing rule after paying the bill and walk up to the pass to ask chef Enda McEvoy how he made it taste so good.