Review: Irish Independent – Into The West

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Anyway, these luminaries of the food world have chosen to eat at Loam, Galway’s newest Michelin-starred restaurant, where Enda McEvoy is in the kitchen. McEvoy used to be the chef at Aniar, and was there when it won its star, a couple of years back. A year ago he opened his own place. His achievement in attaining a star in that short space of time is mighty impressive, and it will bring with it some security, after a first year that has been challenging.

Galway’s a busy town and the population of students (including one of my guests, who’s more used to eating at Fat Freddy’s pizza joint) and tourists keeps rents high on the main drags. McEvoy took the brave step of moving into office space in a new development that had lain empty since construction was completed. It’s a huge space, and the tables are spread far apart. I loved it, and the luxurious feel that architect Juan Sotoparra has created with limited resources. The chairs are classic pieces that have been taken apart and re-glued and re-upholstered by Table Lighting Chair in Dublin, and the space is broken up by boxes designed by furniture maker, Jens Kosak. It’s cool, stylish, and does not look like any other restaurant in the country.

There’s a bar area that’s open from four in the afternoon, which would be a good introduction to Loam and its food. You can have a glass of wine and some ‘snacks’ – pickled sloes and smoked mussels in mustard perhaps – and there are cheese and Irish charcuterie boards on offer too.

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